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For most people, selecting a battery for a car, motorcycle, or UTV is a simple prospect: look up what is a direct fit replacement for your stock battery, and place an order with your favorite vendor.
If you are replacing your stock lead acid battery with a performance lithium battery (or a 'regular' lithium battery) it is a little more complicated- you might need to figure our how lithium batteries are rated vs lead acid, or something.
Usually- like on our website- there is a M/M/Y (make/model/year) application that will suggest the proper battery for you.
So far, so good.
What happens when you have heavily modified your bike or car? Most of our customers have changed enough parts on their vehicles that a MMY suggestion might not work.
If you have a Hayabusa with a 9mm stroker crank and 16:1 compression, the direct fit replacement battery is not going to work.
If that same Hayabusa is a nitrous pro-street bike, the stock battery is not going to work either.
If you are running a front rack on your grudge bike- same thing. If you have a cafe racer, or custom chopper, or rat-rod, or full-chassis 4.60 bike- same thing.
For some bikes, you might need 700 cranking amps, or even 16v instead of 13.2v. Maybe you need both, along with a special connector for your wiring harness?
So, what do you do?
You call us, and we make a recommendation for a custom battery. Part of what makes us unique in the racing industry, is that we are the only company that makes custom products from end to end.
That means we can make you something for your specific combination. Ask Vance & Hines, Aprilia, Kalex, Indian, or any of the other teams that we work with.